| A valiant sentinel in the desert, on the
eastern fringe of the Thar desert has the distinction of
neither being a part of the Thar desert nor out of it.
At best it is a doorway to the wonderland of sand dunes
and shrubs, rocky terrain and thorny trees. The home of
the Rathroes - the awesome princely state of Rajasthan.
They conquered Marwar or Maroodesh, land of the sand after
the fall of Delhi and Kannauj.
In 1459 AD, Rao Jodha, chief of Rathore clan of Rajputs,
who claimed descent from Rama, the epic here of the Ramayana,
laid the foundation of Jodhpur. A high stone wall protects
the well-fortified city. The wall is nearly 10km in length
and has eight gates facing various directions.
Within, stands an imposing fort on a low range of sandstone
hills, about 125m above the surrounding plains. Invincible!
And dauntless in its league with time! The city lies at
the foot of the hills. The clear distinction between the
old and the new city is visible from the ramparts of the
fort.
On the other side of the city, facing the fort is the Umaid
Bhawan Palace. One of the most spacious, sprawling and well-planned
palaces in India. And from here, as you look at fort, a
tantalizing view rises before your eyes at sunset.
The peculiar slant of the sunset lends the desert landscape
an awe-inspiring glow and the people, a chivalry undaunted
.
This bustling desert city is the second largest city in
Rajasthan after Jaipur and has landscape dominated by the
massive Meherangarh Fort topping a sheer rocky ridge.
The old city is fenced by 10 km long wall with eight Gates
leading out of it. The new city is outside the walled city.
Rao Jodha, a chief of the Rathore clan, founded the city
in 1459 and it is named after him.
The Afghans drove the Rathores out of their original homeland
Kaunaj and they fled to this region around Pali a short
distance from present day Jodhpur. A manoeuvre lead to marriage
between Rathore Siahaji and the sister of a local prince
that helped the Rathores to establish and strengthen themselves
in this region. In fact they flourished so well that managed
to oust the Pratiharas of Mandore, just 9 km of present
day Jodhpur.
By 1459 a need for more secured capital lead to the founding
of Meherangarh Fort on its rocky perch and Jodhpur was thus
founded by Rao Jodha. The Rathores enjoyed good relations
with the Mughals and Maharaja Jaswant Singh (1678) supported
Shah Jahan in the latter's struggle for war of succession.
Only problematic relationship they had was with Aurangzeb.
After Auranzeb's death Maharaja Ajit Singh drove out Mughals
from Ajmer and added it to Marwar. In the reign of Maharaja
Umed Singh Jodhpur grew into a fine modern city. The quintessence
of Jodhpur was its valour and equestrian skill. Polo has
been the traditional sport of the Jodhpur nobility since
medieval times.
Jodhpur has two railway stations, City and Rai ka Bagh
both are outside the walled city. The bus stand is right
outside the Rai ka Bagh Station. The High Court is a while
from the bus stand after the Umed Gardens, after which is
located the tourist reception centre and RTDC Hotel Ghoomer.
Ahead is the main market and entry in to the wall from
Sojati Gate. This area also has many hotels. Jodhpur is
also military and air force station and has a large cantonment
and airbase.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
Maharaja Umaid Singhji who built this palace was fascinated
with western lifestyles so he marshalled the services of
a well-known Edwardian architect, Henry Vaughan Lanchester,
a creditable equal of Edward Lutyens (architect of New Delhi)
to construct a three hundred and forty seven roomed Umaid
Palace.
This was to become India last of the great palaces and
the biggest private residence in the world. Spectacular
Central Rotunda, the cupola rises to a hundred and five
feet high; the Throne Room with its exquisite Ramayana murals;
an elegant wood-panelled library, and even a private museum;
an indoor swimming pool, a Billiards Room, tennis courts
and unique marble squash courts makes Umaid Bhawan Palace
is unabashedly the most magnificent.
The palace was also built with superficial intentions of
providing employment to famine stricken farmers. The Palace
now is a five star deluxe palace hotel. The museum of the
palace is highly recommended for its display of weapons,
an array of stuffed leopards, a huge banner presented by
Queen Victoria and an incredible collection of clocks.
Mehrangarh Fort
Perched on a 150 m high hill its sprawl is the most formidable
and magnificent fort in Rajasthan. Rao Jodha founded it
in 1459 but subsequent rulers of Jodhpur have also added
to it over the centuries. A meandering road leads to the
from the city 5 kms below. Battle scars of canon ball hit
by attacking armies of Jaipur can still be seen on the second
gate. To the left is chhatri of Kirat Singh Soda, a soldier
who fell on the spot while defending the fort against the
armies of Amber.
There are seven gates, which include Jayapol meaning victory
built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories
over Jaipur and Bikaner armies. Fattehpol also meaning victory
gate was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh to mark the defeat
of Mughals. And Lohapol meaning iron gate has a moving memorabilia
on palm print of the queens of Maharaja Man Singh who threw
themselves on his funeral pyre in an act of sati [self-immolation].
The palm imprints still attract devotional attention and
are covered by vermilion paste and paper-thin silver foil.
This is one of the finest museums in Rajasthan and certainly
the best layed out. In the palanquin section of the fort
museum, you can see an interesting collection of old royal
palanquins including the elaborate domed gilt Mahadol palanquin,
which was won in a battle from the Governor of Gujarat in
1730. The museum exhibits the heritage of the Rathores in
arms, costumes, paintings and decorated period rooms.
Phool Mahal
The grandest of Mehrangarh's period rooms, the Phool Mahal
was in all likely hood a private and exclusive chamber of
pleasure dancing girls once swooned in exhaustion here under
a ceiling rich in gold filigree. The Phool Mahal was created
by Maharaja Abhaya Singh (1724-1749) and the gold came from
Ahmedabad in Gujarat as war booty after his famous victory
over the rebellious Mughal governor, Sarbuland Khan. The
paintings, royal portraits and the ever-popular raga mala,
came much later, in the reign of Jaswant Singh II.
Jhanki Mahal
The Jhanki Mahal, from where the royal ladies watched the
official proceedings, in the courtyard, today houses a rich
collection of the royal cradles. The cradles are decorated
with gilt mirrors and figures of fairies, elephant and birds
Jaswant Thada
On the way down from the fort, on left is Jaswant Thada,
the graceful marble cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II.
His son Maharaja Sardar Singhji built the Taj Mahal of Marwar
in the memory of Maharaj Jaswant Singhji II of Jodhpur.
The cenotaphs of earlier Maharajas and Maharanis are at
Mandore.
Wives and concubines committed Sati on Jaswant Funeral
pyre. The main memorial has been built like a temple with
intricately carved marble stone that is sculpted by the
genius artesian. A visit to this structure is through the
rocky hills giving it a secluded and a mystic aura.
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